Confetti stitches and frames

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cedarblue
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Confetti stitches and frames

Post by cedarblue »

Hello all

My first large pattern is a bonsai style tree with lots and lots of small clusters of a small amount of stiches of different colours, and now I'm starting to see why this isn't ideal for a first large project :?

Anyway, several points. First, each hole may have up to four threads going through it and if there is knotting on the back, it can be a job to find the hole from the back and push the needle through.

Second, because the stitching is so dense sometimes little fibres of other colour knotting come through from the back.

Third, even though I am stitching exactly through the hole and not missing it at all, sometimes the crosses look lopsided.

Fourth, I bought an interlocking frame which you pin the fabric to and now I have some big pulled holes where the pins were.

I'm not really looking for advice, just ranting off really - although any advice gratefully accepted.

Yours frustratingly.....Cedar :shock:
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Rose
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by Rose »

Well as a beginning most stitchers do not us a knot on the back of the fabric these days. I use them on occasion but I try to avoid them as much as possible. For the reason that you stated they make a big blob on the back of your project and they can leave tufts that will tangle with our other threads. If you are using 2 strands of thread you can us the loop method to start a thread with and then to end there re several options, the best one I have found is to run your needle under several(5-7) stitches on the back side to then be sure it us anchored, skip the last stitch you have run under and in the opposite direction run the thread under those same stitches.

The lopsided stitches usually means that you have pulled the thread in on one of the stitches tighter then some of the rest. I have done this in really heavy confetti stitching and when I see it I will go back with my needle and lightly tug at that leg of the stitch to loosen it up.

As for the frame I am not sure as I do not us them but it is probably that you had them quite taunt and as you were stitching pushing and pulling the thread you have pulled on the fabric and it has ripped where the pins are. not sure of a good fix for that maybe someone else will have a good idea. I use q-snaps and find them very nice.
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cedarblue
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by cedarblue »

Ha, thanks Rose, was sounding off really :)

Yes, I do use the loop method to start but even that causes a bit of a blob if you have many confetti colours nearby, well it does for me!

I take all you say with thanks. I have just ordered some qsnaps things actually and hope they arrive soon. My picture is 13-5 17.5cm total and I do need something to keep good tension in the area I am working in as I scrunch up the left hand side whilst holding it to stitch.

I think I will try to carry some of my colours further than I have been doing, trouble is, the pattern is so confetti there may be inches between each colour of just one square each and this is where the constant starting loop underneath keeps happening.

Oh well, I will change approach a bit and see how I go. I admit I do still need to get my tension right at times, and am still trying out to see if I prefer the cross at a time method or do a row and then go back and complete the row with the stitches the other way.

Thank you for your advice

Cedar :lol:
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fccs
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by fccs »

There's always something to learn in cross stitching, and one of the most important is what works for you! Sometimes I carry my floss a long distance and sometimes I end off and start again - it all depends on the design and my mood. When my tension gets a bit off, I do what Rose does to fix it. As for Qsnaps - I had not even heard of them until I joined the forum and I'm a big fan!

Keep up posted on how you're doing - and don't let the size throw you. No matter how big the design is, it's still just x's. If you can do one, you can do tons more.
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Allyn
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by Allyn »

Rose wrote: ... then to end there re several options, the best one I have found is to run your needle under several(5-7) stitches on the back side to then be sure it us anchored, skip the last stitch you have run under and in the opposite direction run the thread under those same stitches. ...

If you have several colors in a small area, anchoring this way will create problems for you just as much as knotting will. It works ok if you're only using a couple of colors and have plenty of room to anchor, but when you have more than a few colors and they all have to be anchored in a small area, this double-anchoring will end up making big bumps on the back and trashing your tension something fierce. If you have small clusters of stitches made up of different colors, probably just a couple stitches of each color, the pinhead stitch may be your ticket to start and end each color if you're working on aida or over-two on an evenweave.

http://www.scarletquince.com/pinhead_aida.php" target="_blank
http://www.scarletquince.com/pinhead_linen.php" target="_blank

It won't trash your tension and you won't have wads of anchors on the back.
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Rose
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by Rose »

Well actually Allyn I totally disagree with you in your comments about the way I choose to finish off my threads. I am currently working on a very heavy confettied project with over 20 colors that need to be finished in a 10X10 squared area and the way I choose to finish has not distorted the tension on my stitching nor are there "big bumps". I guess it all depends on how you choose to make the threads work for you.
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richardandtracy
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by richardandtracy »

On my current project I am a cross country stitcher, having been driven demented by the number of colours involved while trying parking.

I do use the loop start method and a shorter version of the type of finish Rose recommends. BUT I have built up a hugely thick mat on the back of my fabric in some areas, and I do carry the threads quite some way to get to the next instance to avoid too many thread ends in the same area. In fact, if it's likely to work, I try to finish in the thick thread mat on the back rather than disturb the tension of the front. I have areas which are 1/8" (3mm) thick in places, and carry the thread up to an inch (25mm) from the last stitch. This is the back of my current project to give you an idea of the mess I have made:
Image
This image has quite a few squares where I have more than 40 colours in a 10 x 10 square (peak is 43 colours), and as it's 28 count that's only 9mm x 9mm - which is why I have to end colours some way away.

I think I'm going to investigate the pin head stitch finishes Allyn has suggested. I know they are very effective at ending the thread - as I often accidentally find when trying to unstitch a few stitches and don't quite get the same hole for the needle. Gaagh!

As for the other problems you have. Not sure I'm experienced enough to give suggestions - but promise to duck whenever you need to let off steam!

All the best

Richard.
Last edited by richardandtracy on Mon Apr 27, 2015 11:00 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by Spangoid »

Richard, that looks just as amazing from the back! Really is amazing just how you can see exactly what it is! :applesauce:

I seem to like the word amazing today...
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by Allyn »

Rose wrote:Well actually Allyn I totally disagree with you in your comments about the way I choose to finish off my threads. I am currently working on a very heavy confettied project with over 20 colors that need to be finished in a 10X10 squared area and the way I choose to finish has not distorted the tension on my stitching nor are there "big bumps". I guess it all depends on how you choose to make the threads work for you.

There's nothing wrong with disagreeing. :) I don't consider 20 colors in a 10x10 square to be "heavy confetti" so therein may lie a difference. There is also the difference of loop starting versus having to anchor starting tails as well as ending tails. I just wanted to make the point that doing that double-anchor when it isn't necessary can add unwanted bulk and skew the tension when there may be another way to do it that won't. The OP said she had small clusters of stitches that consisted of multiple colors. Double anchoring in that situation could make quite a wad on the back.
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BlondeStitcher
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by BlondeStitcher »

Okay your conversation about pinhead stirches has me intrigued. But im still confused. When would you use a pinhead stitch? Is it a different way to start or finish? If its to finish I still dont get it... :thinks:
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Allyn
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by Allyn »

BlondeStitcher wrote:Okay your conversation about pinhead stirches has me intrigued. But im still confused. When would you use a pinhead stitch? Is it a different way to start or finish? If its to finish I still dont get it... :thinks:

You can use it to start and/or finish on aida and on evenweaves and linens if you're stitching over two. It's a way to anchor the tail within the stitch itself. If you loop start, you can end with the pinhead. If you use two threads without looping (such as you might do when doing blends), you can start and end with a pinhead. It's very handy when you have lone stitches out in the field and you don't want to carry the thread on the back across unstitched areas. It's also useful when you need to start and/or end a lot of colors in a small area when running the anchor tails under adjacent stitches collectively end up making a wad on the back.
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poserk
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by poserk »

Qsnaps?
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stitchnsew
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by stitchnsew »

Second, because the stitching is so dense sometimes little fibres of other colour knotting come through from the back.

Third, even though I am stitching exactly through the hole and not missing it at all, sometimes the crosses look lopsided.


For those fibers, I just take a threaded needle, (not attached to the project ) and run it front to back through the hole that the fiber is sticking up out of, and it pulls those offending little bits to the back. It can sometimes help with those lopsided crosses too.
It's very hard to get perfect little crosses, I think, with a bunch of confetti stitches. The adjoining stitches are always getting pulled at as you come up and down through the same hole to make a new cross. As said way above, sometimes you just have to fiddle with the needle to loosen up the tension or push a more loose leg back in. Or as my above suggestion , on the leg that really looks loose, use that threaded needle to help pull it back.

However, once a project is looked at from a few feet away, rather than a few inches, as you are doing when you are stitching, it will look great!
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by cairee »

Third, even though I am stitching exactly through the hole and not missing it at all, sometimes the crosses look lopsided.
to avoid lopsided stitches make sure you are stitching so that the thread in the back pulls away from the hole.

bottom leg goes from bottom left to top right, top leg goes from bottom right to top left. with the next stitch (or row of stitches) lower than the stitch(es) you just did the thread will pull in the right direction leaving nice even stitches.

clear as mud right? ill add pictures if you want
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cedarblue
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by cedarblue »

Hello again all :)

My work is coming along quite well!

A quick question, if I may, when doing the backstitching to create edging lines, if there is a length of back stitching, is it adviseable to do one cross at a time or do , say 3 crosses in long long stitch, sorry am I making myself clear?

Thank you

Cedar
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rcperryls
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by rcperryls »

Are you asking about back stitch or making large x stitches? If I have a backstitch which covers several squares and is no more than 4 or 5 squares I will often do a long stitch. Otherwise I pretty much do one backstitch per square. It depends on the effect you are trying to get. Do the instructiions give you any more information on when to do the backstitch and when a long stitch is preferred?

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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by cedarblue »

Hi Carole

I mean, for example, the black backstitch which I am sewing around the pattern to give it outline. Sometimes when I do a long backstitch, say 4 or more squares, when I go on and sew more, the long stitch can lose some of its tautness and becomes a tiny bit loose, this is why I was wondering about if anyone did one backstitch per cross square.

Cedar
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Allyn
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by Allyn »

It is the usual way to do one backstitch per square. The only time I do long stitches is when the 'backstitch' doesn't follow the edges of the squares. For example, if the backstitch starts in the upper left corner of one stitch and goes straight to the lower right corner of the adjacent stitch making a long diagonal over two (or more) stitches. I did long stitches on a ship's rigging in a design in which the 'backstitch' spanned three or four stitches across but 25 or 30 stitches down in one long stitch. In a case like that, I had to couch it every four or five squares. If your backstitches are getting loose, stitch one per square or couch them.
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Re: Confetti stitches and frames

Post by Mabel Figworthy »

I like using longer backstitches as they allow for more fluid lines and don't look so"bitty", but I agree with Allyn that very long ones can do with couching. In order to keep the nice straight line I make sure not to pull my couching stitches too much, but just enough to keep the thread in place.
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