First HAED Project

[vickil]

Hello Everyone! I have been a peeper for awhile now. Have learned alot from all of you. You are an amazing bunch of folk here.

Just wanted to ask for a bit of advice. I have been stitching for a number of years now. I don't call myself an expert, nowhere close, but I ran up on a pattern and fell in love with it. Actually, I did not realize it was a HAED until I had ordered it. The name of the piece is Wolf Variant. Well, it just came in today, and needless to say, I think I am in a bit of a shock. Very daunting. This will be my largest project ever. but I LOVE the print! It has 90 colors and Oh Gads! 63 pages! The best that I can tell its all full stitches, tho. I don't think there are any halfs or back stitching. Thank goodness for small miracles. 21" W x 31-1/8" H on 25 ct.

So, what should be my first thing I should do after I purchase all my thread? Or should I buy it all at once or as I need it? Probably need to grid it off, right?

Oh, I think I will probably be doing this one on my death bed! Prayers please.



Thank you in advance for your help.

Vicki

[Allyn]

Don't be intimidated. No matter how big it is, it's still only one stitch at a time -- all whole stitches, no specialty or fractionals and no backstitching -- so it is very doable for your skill level -- easy peasy, in fact. Really, the only thing that will be different for you will be organization of the fabric and threads. You already know how to make the stitches.

Gridding is a personal preference. I don't grid -- never have -- but lots of folks swear by it so I encourage you to try it.

I like to get all my colors at once, but I understand about budget restraints. If you have to buy colors as you need them, do it. If the project has large fields of solid color, I would encourage you to buy at least all of that color at the same time; but in confetti areas, it doesn't make a difference if there are subtle differences in dye lots.

Even though it is a large design, if you do it 2-over-1 tent stitch, it'll go surprisingly fast. If you do full crosses, it's still one stitch at a time and you keep marching forward.

And you know we want to see pictures.

Printing Tip:
If you make working copies of the pages to mark off your progress and use a marker, I would suggest having the pages printed on 24-pound paper instead of the usual 20-pound (the thicker paper prevents marker bleed-through) and have them printed in Fast-print, "Economy," or "Draft" mode (different printer manufacturers use different terms). That puts less ink on the paper and prevents smearing when you use the marker.

[richardandtracy]

That is a big project, 409500 stitches. Phwee. I haven't done that number in my life... yet. I seem to be able to manage about 50k-60k a year and still have time to do something else. It really is a lovely picture, but to commit to 8 years of stitching ... that is quite a step. Hope you are a fair bit quicker than I am!

Looking at the picture, one thing does jump out at me, and that is the large area of monochrome black in the V on the wolf's neck. Personally, I would be very tempted to add back some detail that appears to have been lost in the thread colour conversion, drawing in some sparse fur highlights in DMC 3371 and occasional little 1 or 2 stitch highlights in something slightly lighter on the V area. It wouldn't change the chart a great deal, but will add a tiny amount of detail into an otherwise blank area, and have the advantage of reducing the monotony of stitching that area.

What colour fabric are you going to stitch on? In my last project I tried to save stitching time by using black fabric, as black was such a feature of the photo I converted. It did save a lot of time, cutting down the amount of stitching from 140400 stitches to 44060, BUT particularly in the darker areas bordering the black where the darkest colours were, I needed a head light to make it bright enough to see. I suspect over a project as big as your one, a head light would become serious burden.

Anyway, I admire you for taking on such a project.

Sorry, I've been deviating.
If possible I'd try to get all the threads at once, but recognise it may not be possible. I think as a minimum, because black is such a feature of the V on the wolf's front, it would be worth getting all 11 skeins of the black (and quite a few people seem to recommend using 'Anchor' black as the coverage is better than DMC black), then maybe one each of all the rest & blend in the next skein as you get down to the last metre/yard of the old skein. Also, do look around for cheap threads online. In my local UK shop thread skeins are £1 each. I got the 75 extra colours I needed (out of 151) for my current project online for £0.40p each. You are going to need, what, 200+? That is a sizable investment even if you go to the cheapest source.

Gridding - I don't grid, but I do mark out the chart page boundaries in the area I'm working with a bit of contrasting sewing thread, and ensure that the stitched boundaries to the page use stitches 5 holes long, that way (for example) chart stitches 90-94 are marked with a thread on the surface and 95-99 by the thread being behind the fabric. I have less experience than Allyn, so possibly need more help, and it's possible you won't need any such contrivances either.

Regards,

Richard.

[Serinde]

Gorgeous design, I can see why you couldn't resist.

As Allyn says, it's one stitch at a time. Dyelots aren't so important, but Richard's correct: choose your black carefully. It might even be worth experimenting with Madeira black, which gets the thumbs up from a lot of stitchers. Making working copies, scanning the pages onto the computer to use with Goodreader (or something like it), coloured markers, gridding or using DMC Magic fabric (which is pre gridded)... whatever makes it easier and enjoyable to do. The forum has quite a few HAED-cases, so you are Not Alone!

[vickil]

Still feeling overwhelmed this morning. Thank you for your replays, all very good information. I'm not going to get in a hurry, I realize that my prep on this project is important. Thanks for the heads up on the black thread. It does seem that I always have a problem with my black threads showing through.

I have decided that I am getting all of my thread, since this is going to take a long while to finish, I want to make sure that I have my colors. I've noticed on old charts, you sometimes are not able to get a color. Will start going thru my threads tonight to see what I already have.

I might even learn how to park my threads on this one. Something that I have been wanting to learn for awhile.

Happy stitching!

[rcperryls]

What a beautiful chart that is! Don't be scared of the size. As you said, no back stitching, fractionals or blended threads so that is pretty straightforward. I have mostly HAED charts in my rotation (kind of went nuts when I discovered them) and would suggest that before you make any decision on fabric size and type of stitch (full or tent) that you test what you want to do on a small piece of the fabric. HAED suggests 25 ct evenweave and full crosses using 2 over 1. I tried that with my first HAED. The first pages were easy as it was all black (and I mean pages of black background), but when I got to the colors and sections with large confetti, I could not get the needle through the fabric. Some people have no problem, but it became impossible for me. 6+ pages later I started over and though I still love it, I find that project hard to return to. I learned that better combinations for me are either 25 ct full crosses but 1 over 1 or my favorite which is 28 ct, tent stitching 2 over 1. Either gives me good coverage and in high confetti areas it is sooooo much easier for me. When you do test make sure that you stitch an area large enough so you can get a good idea of what it will be like to be changing threads often. Probably a lot easier if you can learn parking. I have a problem with too many threads to keep track of.

Hope that all makes sense. I know I'm wordy, but I try to spare people what I went through.

I find that gridding my piece helps me keep track of where I am. I use a water soluble fabric marker and grid a page at a time as I'm stitching.

The two most important things though are Have fun!!!! and Post pictures!!!!
Can't wait to see your updates!

Carole


Carole

[Fizzbw]

I agre with Carole spend a little time practising. Depending where you are I'm happy to send you some scraps to try on? I started with tent stitch (2 over 1) on 25 count and hated it! 28 was too small and I'm not a fan if working with just one stand, or not for a massive project. Then I found 22 count Oslo and I'm loving that. Oslo is softer than the corresponding hart anger which is also 22 coubt. And now 20 count aida seems to be available as well.

So lots of options, and it really is worth practising.

I grid, I tend to grid as I go along with a pen, black thread can be an issue, generally i find anchor gives more coverage than DMC but I recently had a major issue with it when I was using it 1 over 1. I'm going to try out Maderia before I get to some big black bits in one of my HAEDs....

Best of luck, don't be too daunted! And have some other smaller projects to stitch in between, or become a major HAEDcase and have six on the go......

Niki xxx

[Squirrel]

Firstly so glad you stopped being a "peeper" and joined in. Secondly I agree with all that has been said and the only thing I would add perhaps is to just grid an area to start with and add to it as needed. Another way would be to firstly grid the centre lines and then do the 10x10 grids on one part of it.

Looking forward to seeing this lovely design come to life.

[SteveM]

You can get some good deals on thread by waiting for a coupon for Michael's, but expect to not find some colors or not enough of the color and to reach into the bin labeled "413" and pull out "414". And when you're all said and done you get to hold up the line for 10 minutes while they scan the bar codes on your massive pile of skeins. For a slightly higher cost, but still a very good deal buy from 123stitch.com. Just type in "White" instead of the number "1" when using their quick order feature.

Your next biggest decision is probably the fabric and stitch type. 2 over 1 on 25 count fabric is a tough row to hoe, but can be done. My current WIP is 25 count 2 over 1 and I find that the parked threads passing behind the area that I am working on build up a thick mat that can be very hard to get a needle through, I'd probably have stopped and switch to 22 or 20 count by now but then the fabric would be too wide for my scroll frame. On higher stitch counts people tend to use 1 over 1 full stitch or a 2 over 1 tent stitch. Your design is 525 x 780 so if you leave a 3" border of fabric all around you need fabric 27" x 37.2" on 25 count. If you were to use 18 count Aida that grows to 35.2" x 49.3" including the 3" border!

You should look around this forum as there are lots of threads talking about fabric selection and stitch type, floss storage and management, needle size, work holding, stitching lamps, and other accessories. Don't neglect youtube videos as well, Carolyn Mazzeo has some excellent video tutorials.

[vickil]

Update. I decided on a stand. Is the Mark 2 floor stand by Hearthside Designs. Lovely folks to deal. It's ordered and I should get it in about 3 weeks. So excited!! So I have another question. Or two actually. Fray Check or zigzag? and. Do I grid before I put my fabric an the rods or after?

Hobby, I can't wait!!!!

[StitchinWitch]

Personally I really like the zig zag. Seems sturdier for me.

I tend to grid before I use my q snap, but that's just me. I've only gridded a few projects, and none were super huge.

Can't wait to see your progress

[Allyn]

The Mark 2 is an awesome stand. Grats.

I don't do anything to the edges of my fabric. I use scroll rods and so the edges of the fabric don't get handled. On linens or evenweaves, a thread or two right along the edge might come loose, but no more than that. If you want to bind your edges, either Fray Chek or zig-zag works. My preference for binding would be to serge the edge.

If you're going to grid the whole thing, I'd grid before mounting the fabric in the scroll frame. If you're going to grid as you go, mark your starting spot and then mount the fabric.

[vickil]

Allyn, have your ever used Fray Check? It doesn't harm the fabric/stitches in anyway?
I'm going to use scroll frames too, but I know that mine def will not be finished as fast as yours. Have thought about not protecting the edges, but considering how long this project is going to take me, I'm not sure. I'll think on it.

http://www.better-cross-stitch-patterns ... abric.html" target="_blank

I found this site that shows how to prepare and grid your material. Thought it would be helpful to others.

[vickil]

And, there are all kings of free patterns and how to's.

Hope it helps everyone.

[Allyn]

I glanced at that link you gave for fabric prep. If the author is dealing with aida fraying and threads catching in the edges, I can guarantee you that she isn't using a scroll frame. You won't have to deal with any of the problems she is describing in that article, so her argument for using Fray Check versus sewing the edges doesn't apply to you.

I use Fray Check when I sew. I don't use anything on my cross-stitch fabric. I don't advocate using it on your stitching fabric but others folks use it and they don't report ill affects. If you use it just around the very edge of the fabric, it won't touch your stitches. Use it sparingly because it will wick a bit through the fibers. Let it dry completely before you handle the fabric and definitely before you mount it on the scroll rods. If your choices are Fray Check or zig-zag, and you really feel like you must bind the edges, I'd definitely recommend zig-zagging.

If you use a hoop or Q-Snaps, the fabric gets "handled" a lot while you stitch and binding the edges is important to keep the fabric from unraveling. I use scroll frames and have for decades. Since the edges of the fabric don't get handled, edge binding isn't needed. I have serged the edges in the past, but see no benefit from doing it. I've worked on projects that have taken me years to complete and the most that's happened is a thread or two comes loose and that's only on linens or evenweaves.

[vickil]

Thanks, Allyn. Sewing is not my thing. Machine sewing I should say. I can do it, but at gun point.
My fabric is evenweave, 25 ct. I know, everyone says not to use it, but I had ordered it, so we are going to give it a try. I plan on cutting my fabric this week so that I can start gridding my fabric. I plan on trying out some stitches on the excess.

Thanks for all your good advice

[Allyn]

Not everyone. I don't know why people say not to use it. I use 25 ct lugana (an evenweave) and it's fine. My current WiP is on 25 ct lugana.

If you haven't cut your fabric yet, let me give you a tip when using scroll frames. I don't know what size margins you usually leave around the design. I leave six inches all around; other folks leave as little as two. If you leave the 'usual' two or three inches, add an inch or two to the top and bottom. When using scroll rods, I recommend leaving enough fabric on the top and bottom so that when you're working on the very top or bottom of the design, you still have a full wrap of fabric around the scroll rod. If the fabric wraps around the rod and 'traps' itself, you'll have better control on tension.

If you don't want to machine sew it and you still feel like you want to bind the edges, whip stitch it. If you decide to go with the Fray Check, leave enough extra fabric at the margins that you can trim it off when you're done.

[vickil]

Allyn, thanks for the advice.
I believe the fabric is a half yard. I do remember that it still has the salvage edge on 2 sides, and according to how the fabric was cut that would be the top and bottom. My finished design is suppose to be 21" x 31" , or pretty close. I was just gong to leave the salvage edges alone even tho the fabric is way to long. My rods are going to be 30" long, so thats going to leave me with, what, about 9" which gives me 4.5" extra per side?

I have never not basted my fabric to the rods. Will it hold the tension? Would seem like it would slip over time.

[Allyn]

You said you've never not basted, so I'm guessing you don't baste the fabric on these rods? What system do they use?

All my rods are the baste-on type. I run great big one-inch stitches in whatever color thread I have next to me when basting the fabric onto the rod. I don't even anchor the ends. I just stitch an X to start, run the long basting stitches and then end with an X. No matter what the system, that's why I suggested leaving plenty of fabric at the top and bottom so there is always at least a full wrap around the scroll rods. As long as the fabric 'traps' itself wrapped around the rods, I've never had a tension problem from the fabric slipping. I have a little arthritis in my hands which can make it a challenge getting the knobs tight. I'll periodically have to re-tighten the rods, but the fabric doesn't slip.

[vickil]

Oh OK, I think I misunderstood your post. I thought you did not baste fabric to the rods. I was just trying to figure out how that would work. Sorry.