How to deal with multi-shaded areas
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How to deal with multi-shaded areas
Hello all,
Thanks for the welcome on the other forum. Okay, now for my ultra-newbie question. All the tutorials I have found, both online and in books, only seem to cover the very basics and show a single block of one color, more or less. I’m working on Skating Snowman by Jeanette Crews,
http://www.patternsonline.com/Patterns/LPat.aspx?P=1765
.....and there are lots of areas with just a few (sometimes one) stitch of one shade. In other words, if I were to work in rows, say for his hat which is where I decided to start, I would have to change colors every 2 or 3 stitches and have about half a dozen needles on the go. If I did that, I would have trouble working out which color was in which needle (very close shades of blue in this case). How do you guys do these patterns? Do you work a row at a time, changing needles/colors all the row along? Or do you do blocks of color, leaving the required stitch or stitches blank in the middle until you have done a reasonable amount in one color, then change threads and fill in the blanks? In this case, a “block†might be anything from 1 to 10 stitches. I hope I am making sense!
Any and all help gratefully received.
MarieR
Thanks for the welcome on the other forum. Okay, now for my ultra-newbie question. All the tutorials I have found, both online and in books, only seem to cover the very basics and show a single block of one color, more or less. I’m working on Skating Snowman by Jeanette Crews,
http://www.patternsonline.com/Patterns/LPat.aspx?P=1765
.....and there are lots of areas with just a few (sometimes one) stitch of one shade. In other words, if I were to work in rows, say for his hat which is where I decided to start, I would have to change colors every 2 or 3 stitches and have about half a dozen needles on the go. If I did that, I would have trouble working out which color was in which needle (very close shades of blue in this case). How do you guys do these patterns? Do you work a row at a time, changing needles/colors all the row along? Or do you do blocks of color, leaving the required stitch or stitches blank in the middle until you have done a reasonable amount in one color, then change threads and fill in the blanks? In this case, a “block†might be anything from 1 to 10 stitches. I hope I am making sense!
Any and all help gratefully received.
MarieR
Hi, thats a good question. I usually stitch like:
It all depends on what u find easier i think. When i want to start my big project im going to be getting a needle holder and number what the needles are in which as i think theres one u can buy with little tabs for u to write on with (correct me if im wrong please).
As i find this easier, then keep changin my needle but b4 i started to stitch like this i use to do it the hard way and keep changing colour each time.Or do you do blocks of color, leaving the required stitch or stitches blank in the middle until you have done a reasonable amount in one color, then change threads and fill in the blanks
It all depends on what u find easier i think. When i want to start my big project im going to be getting a needle holder and number what the needles are in which as i think theres one u can buy with little tabs for u to write on with (correct me if im wrong please).
Hi MarieR
I am currently doing this:
http://www.sewandso.co.uk/cgi-bin/find/ ... ch_results
I've marked the material with tacking stitches into square blocks of 10x10 stitches in a contrasting colour. Have also marked the pattern the same. And I cross off the squares on the pattern as they are completed.
I only have one needle on the go and I generally do one colour in a particular block and carry on on the next block until that length of floss is done, then I start a new colour and do the same.
Hope this helps
mags
I am currently doing this:
http://www.sewandso.co.uk/cgi-bin/find/ ... ch_results
I've marked the material with tacking stitches into square blocks of 10x10 stitches in a contrasting colour. Have also marked the pattern the same. And I cross off the squares on the pattern as they are completed.
I only have one needle on the go and I generally do one colour in a particular block and carry on on the next block until that length of floss is done, then I start a new colour and do the same.
Hope this helps
mags

http://www.readicut.co.uk/product.asp?s ... e=1&jump=4
Im sure u can get it cheaper else where but this is what i was on about. I also do what mags does and cross out any colours which i have done, so that will help me find out where i go wrong if i do and normally i do lol.
Im sure u can get it cheaper else where but this is what i was on about. I also do what mags does and cross out any colours which i have done, so that will help me find out where i go wrong if i do and normally i do lol.
Thank you both. Mags, I am marking my work 10 x 10 right now! What a great idea. I will most likely do as you do for the stitching too—use up one color within a block (and beyond) and go back and fill in the blanks after that. That design looks fantastic (and hard). Can’t wait to see the finished piece.
Sammy, I like your idea of a needle organizer. The link you posted seems to be to a thread organizer, and I don’t think that is quite what I need (I organize my threads on bobbins on a ring, so I already have all for one project to hand). Maybe I’m missing something about how you would use that for threaded needles?
Anyway, thanks again to both of you. Fantastic to get help so quickly!
MarieR
Sammy, I like your idea of a needle organizer. The link you posted seems to be to a thread organizer, and I don’t think that is quite what I need (I organize my threads on bobbins on a ring, so I already have all for one project to hand). Maybe I’m missing something about how you would use that for threaded needles?
Anyway, thanks again to both of you. Fantastic to get help so quickly!
MarieR
I tend to work in blocks of colour. If I had scattered stitches of a colour dotted here and there, I would save it till I've done the other colours around it if possible. That way if you have to carry your thread across short distances, it won't show and you can use the surrounding stitches to anchor your thread at the back. It's trickier if you have single stitches in blank areas of fabric, I've been known to knot them individually to stop the thread being seen through the fabric.
I hope that makes sense!
BTW, I love the design, very funny!
I hope that makes sense!

BTW, I love the design, very funny!
A stitch in time is my idea of a perfect day!
Connie
Connie

Thanks, Connie. I did forget to ask--working in blocks like that with just a few stitches of each color, is it easier to do complete cross stitches or do half stitches as much as possible--assuming there are at least a few in a row--then come back and complete them? I'm leaning towards complete stitches for these small areas but willing to be guided elsewhere.
MarieR

MarieR
hahaha so it is sorry must have been havin one of my moments. The link i was ment to give u was:
http://www.sewandso.co.uk/ran573-0.html
scroll to the bottom of the page and it there about 8 sommat. Sorry
http://www.sewandso.co.uk/ran573-0.html
scroll to the bottom of the page and it there about 8 sommat. Sorry
- lacemaker2004
- Posts: 1873
- Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2007 1:41 pm
- Location: New Jersey, usa
Stitching in Blocks
I tend to work in blocks with no more than a few stitches between. I've recently bought needle organizer for those projects with confetti stitching so I don't have to keep threading needles but have yet to try it.
First let me say that you have chosen an excellent pattern
. I love snowmen and I collect them sooooo.
For beginning stitchers here are a few suggestions and I am saying these are suggestions.
1) Make a copy of the pattern and as you stitch mark each square off. That way you will know were you are during stitching and when you have to stop and put down your work. Also at the end you will still be able to see exactly where the backstitching lines are rather then trying to see over the marked off paper. Also if you use the same pattern more then once you don't have to keep buying it over and over.
2) Start in the center of the fabric. At least for the first one or two projects just so you can see that the piece is going to be directly in the center. It can be heartbreaking to get half or more done and find out that the pattern won't fit because you have calculated wrong.
After you have done a few pieces you can decide how you want to start and that will be a personal decision
3) Don't overwhelm yourself with your first few projects start small and build from there. A kit is a good first time project as everything is provided except the hoop/frame/scroll.
4) Each person will have to decide if they want to do half a cross or a full cross. I personally make all of my crosses complete regardless of if it is a block of color or if I am doing confetti stitches. I like to finish each cross and then go to the next. This also helps when you have to go back and frog.
5) When carrying thread across don't go more then 4 to 5 squares If you do then you will be in danger of catching the floss when stitching with another color and maybe fraying.
6) And this is a rule I alway stick with if you are stitching confetti stitches that are out in the open all by themself DO NOT run the thread out over an open area of material. This is a big NO NO it may seem to be hidden but once the piece is finished the thread tends to show through any unworked areas with fross stretched across the back so don't do it.
I hope this will be of some help for you.

For beginning stitchers here are a few suggestions and I am saying these are suggestions.
1) Make a copy of the pattern and as you stitch mark each square off. That way you will know were you are during stitching and when you have to stop and put down your work. Also at the end you will still be able to see exactly where the backstitching lines are rather then trying to see over the marked off paper. Also if you use the same pattern more then once you don't have to keep buying it over and over.
2) Start in the center of the fabric. At least for the first one or two projects just so you can see that the piece is going to be directly in the center. It can be heartbreaking to get half or more done and find out that the pattern won't fit because you have calculated wrong.
After you have done a few pieces you can decide how you want to start and that will be a personal decision
3) Don't overwhelm yourself with your first few projects start small and build from there. A kit is a good first time project as everything is provided except the hoop/frame/scroll.
4) Each person will have to decide if they want to do half a cross or a full cross. I personally make all of my crosses complete regardless of if it is a block of color or if I am doing confetti stitches. I like to finish each cross and then go to the next. This also helps when you have to go back and frog.

5) When carrying thread across don't go more then 4 to 5 squares If you do then you will be in danger of catching the floss when stitching with another color and maybe fraying.
6) And this is a rule I alway stick with if you are stitching confetti stitches that are out in the open all by themself DO NOT run the thread out over an open area of material. This is a big NO NO it may seem to be hidden but once the piece is finished the thread tends to show through any unworked areas with fross stretched across the back so don't do it.
I hope this will be of some help for you.
If you are looking for some one to help change you, look in the mirror
As Rose says. Cannot emphasise enough how important it is to start from the centre and not to have long trails of threads on the back. Makes a mess.
I cross stitches as I go: I think the result is neater and it's also easier to correct.
I now work with several needles. As sammy_v says, a needle organiser is a great help, especially on large projects. (You'll get there, believe me, as your affinity for collecting stash grows...!)
Here's a trick you might try: look at your chart and find the symbol that stands out the most, or the symbol that is at the centre of your design. Stitch that colour within an easily-countable area. Now, when you look at your chart, you will be able to recognise that particular symbol, and easily find your way around your fabric. The symbol becomes a kind of signpost for you.
Another trick I've come across is to do the dark colours first (if it's convenient to do this). It means your whites and creams have less of a chance to get grubby or catch up stray bits of dark floss.
Is your head spinning yet from all this advice?
I cross stitches as I go: I think the result is neater and it's also easier to correct.
I now work with several needles. As sammy_v says, a needle organiser is a great help, especially on large projects. (You'll get there, believe me, as your affinity for collecting stash grows...!)
Here's a trick you might try: look at your chart and find the symbol that stands out the most, or the symbol that is at the centre of your design. Stitch that colour within an easily-countable area. Now, when you look at your chart, you will be able to recognise that particular symbol, and easily find your way around your fabric. The symbol becomes a kind of signpost for you.
Another trick I've come across is to do the dark colours first (if it's convenient to do this). It means your whites and creams have less of a chance to get grubby or catch up stray bits of dark floss.
Is your head spinning yet from all this advice?

- coffee_freak
- Posts: 10312
- Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 2:14 pm
- Location: maryland,usa
- Contact:
i start from the center and try to do blocks of color..if that is impossible I always end my thread and change the needle..even if a doze times in a 3inch spot! lol.
and I always make a copy of the chart and mark off with a highlighter as I stitch so I know what I have done and what needs to be done..
welcome again and good luck!
and I always make a copy of the chart and mark off with a highlighter as I stitch so I know what I have done and what needs to be done..
welcome again and good luck!
If you get a comment of a
,I must be holding my 
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skype:coffeecupcakescrossstitch
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http://coffeecupcakescrossstitch.blogspot.com/
skype:coffeecupcakescrossstitch
WIP:
Joan Elliot Spring Fairy
Cupcakes
Snuggle Up
2012 HD's
Bohemia
Fairy Friend
Most of you will probably disagree with the way i do it. I pick a colour and use the whole length of thread (as long as i can count far enough to where the stitches are), then pick another colour and do the whole of that length of thread. Yes the back of my cross stitch is a complete mess, but i've never had a problem with it showing through from the front. I also colour in the squares on the chart once i've stitched them.

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And my blog which is full of all my stitching
I do the same as Serinde, look for the symbol that there is the most of, if it's a few of the same, go for the darker colour, and then I stitch that for a reasonable distance, either I get bored with the colour or there's too big of a gap so then I change to the next biggest colour. I like the design you're stitching!!
I forgot to say for patterns with 30 colours or more, especially if they're very similar I use the thread organiser, it stops me getting confused about what colour is on what needle, some are very deceptive!!
LOve the pattern you're stitching mags!! Lots of similar colours though!!
I forgot to say for patterns with 30 colours or more, especially if they're very similar I use the thread organiser, it stops me getting confused about what colour is on what needle, some are very deceptive!!
LOve the pattern you're stitching mags!! Lots of similar colours though!!
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Goodness!
There looks like there's alot more than 11, the designer has done a lovely job with shading. How far are you along?

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Facebook: Sarah-Kay Scholefield
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My WIP's
Home Sweet Home Cushion Sets
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My WIP's
Home Sweet Home Cushion Sets
Flower Set - 2 to go
Olga Gostin Australian Houses Set - 4 to go
Yeah, you do need to resize your pics to fit. I use photobucket, but I assume webshots is similar. It's really not as daunting as it seems, I'm not that technically gifted when it comes to computers, but I do without thinking now. If you have any questions just ask. Would *love* to see your progress!!
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Facebook: Sarah-Kay Scholefield
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My WIP's
Home Sweet Home Cushion Sets
Flower Set - 2 to go
Olga Gostin Australian Houses Set - 4 to go
Facebook: Sarah-Kay Scholefield
Twitter: purplechidna
My WIP's
Home Sweet Home Cushion Sets
Flower Set - 2 to go
Olga Gostin Australian Houses Set - 4 to go