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So I have a question for those of you tha do alot of the beads on your projcts. do you tend to attach with / or do you do the full X?

I have only ever done a few beads on to a project and that was on 14 count so I did the full X and it was fine but on this current project the fabric is 16 and the full X was really bulky so I am just doing the /. The beads move a bit more but they seem to be secure. Another thing is the beads are larger then the square and they overlap some, do you think they will settle down once I have them all in place?

I've never done much with beading, but my next two projects have quite a bit of beadwork on them. So, thank you for bringing this up.. I'll be keeping my eye on this topic.

I subscribe to the Nordic Needle newsletter. Not that long ago they were talking about beading. Heres the link to the recent newsletter, and their original newsletter discussion from 2009. The original is quite basic, the different beads they carry, bead sizes, etc. I think the more recent newsletter has more useful information.. attachment methods, tools, needles, etc.

I use a full x on mine with invisible thread and once all the beads are in place you can tweak them and they stay put

I use a / because they all lay in the same direction and you don't have the same bulk. I had trouble getting tension right using a X

It is really important when using a / to back stitch over your thread at the back of your beading - this pulls the beads tight, stops that loose wobbly business.

I always use a full cross to seat my beads. I like Sulky .004 Invisible thread to attach them. It comes in handy when working in tight spaces. The monofilament lets the bead "ride" in it. You can work the cross with the bead slightly off the fabric and then the bead "rides" right into place when you pull the thread tight. It helps to align all the beads together and lets your needle get into that hard to reach hole.

Whether or not the beads will be too oversized depends on the project. I've often found that the beads will lock into place as they come together. Would a step down in bead size make them too small? Are you using Mill Hill or Delicas?

I am using the Mill Hill beads that the pattern called for and the model was stitched on 32 count evenweave over 2 which works out to 16 count aida so the size should be the same.

Any smaller and I would not be able to get the needle through the hole.

I've found that MH beads do tend to sit a bit fat on 32/16, but they do usually snug down okay. I hope this doesn't sound trite; but, are you using a beading needle? The size of the eye and flexibility of a true beading needle makes all the difference in the world. I tried beading with a tapestry needle. Even the eye of a #28 was about too large, especially the few times I tried using a strand of floss before switching to monofilament.

Your question is legitimate. I do have beading needles and they slide through quite well but these are the seed beads so very small. Plus as I said I am actually following the guide lines of the pattern. I think I am just being very picky as they look good. I usually avoid beads as I don't care for them on my cross stitching. But since this is not really my project I need to follow the direction.

Unfortunately the actual bead size is your biggest problem. Mill Hill standard seed beads are 2.5mm. On 16ct each space is 1/16" = .0625" = 1.5875mm........so 2.5mm bead in a 1.59mm space and you're going to have a few problems.
Mill Hill Petite Seed Beads are 2.0mm, so you'll still have issues, just not a badly.
In either case, you'll have a bit of a fudge factor as long as you're not doing large areas of solid beads.

Good luck with the project and hang in there with it. I'm sure it will be beautiful as all your work.

PS: I highly recommend using the the Sulky (or most any other brand) monofilament for attaching beads. It makes a world of difference. If you decide to try it, LMK. There are a few tricks to working with it. I'll be glad to knock up a few tricks.

My only piece with any real beading was The Wedding. I used petite Mill Hill seed beads for it, and they were a perfect fit which was great since they were all filling in gaps in the design, and weren't 'confetti' beads.

Beads drive me nuts, but they look so good when they are done. I also use invisible thread to attach in a X so the beads stand straight. However, I have run into the problem of not all the beads fitting the given area and have had to fudge the number (use one less or so). In the end no one knows the difference but you.

I use a full X instead of / and I kinda like it like that. They are more firm fixed. I also use matching colors threads.









This was the first project for me with things like beads, metallic threads and backstitches. And I think the beads look quite well.

the beads look beautiful. I admire your doing this. I don't think I have the patience. I usually cheat and do french knots. they don't look as well usually. Next time I might be brave and try beads again, but I don't think they will turn out as well as yours did.



Carole

I had a lot of beads to do on my Indian Maiden and Brave - I used a / going through the bead and then did another / the same way, splitting the two strands of thread one either side of the bead and I use matching thread to the colour of the bead. It holds them nice and tight this way - I read this method of securing them somewhere, but I can't remember where. It might even have been on the charts I was stitching.

Thanks all I used the same color of thread as the bead. I did / and with all of the beads being so close and the size of them compared to the fabric there was no way I could get a second \ through. It was annoying enough with out thqat added headache. I am just glad that I am done and can be shut of it.