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I could use some advice on anchoring single stitches for one of my current WIPs.

I'm not obsessive about having neat backs, but I dislike having to stretch thread across wide areas if possible. So in a project that has polka dots, for example, if they are farther apart, I like anchoring my thread anew for each dot. Since I anchor by weaving my thread under, it doesn't work so well with just one stitch (a / leg and a \ leg only). So if the single stitch is surrounded by an already stitched area (again, like with polka dots), I usually weave the thread under a few surrounding stitches as well, which seems to hold okay.

So here's the problem with my current WIP. It's a Mill Hill kit on perforated paper, and it has several areas where there are single stitches off by themselves in the background. The problem is that with the large holes in the paper, you can see the thread jumping across wholes. Here's a closeup of the model to see what I mean:



You can see the yellow thread through the holes of the paper. So my question is, does anyone have any advice for how to anchor the stitches singly so that I don't have the yellow showing through the holes?

not sure how to do it on the paper, maybe you could add a few beads to cover it?

I take it the background isn't stitched?

If you leave a tail of thread to the RH side on the back, start your x on the bottom left to top right, then bottom right to top left, making sure you catch the tail under the two upright stitches on the back of the fabric. Then run your needle under these same upright stitches from the other direction. Make sure they are snug, and then snip. This is the only way I can think to do it. If your piece them has a backing to it (like a piece of material or coloured paper), the stitches won't be too vulnerable.

There is a way to use pin stitches to stitch single crosses on fabric, but it is best of evenweaves and not helpful at all for perforated paper.

I'd echo what Serinde said, but also say:

If it's bothering you a lot, it may be worth stitching over the background too, that way it'll fill in the holes with thread. It may add quite a time to the job though.

Regards,

Richard.

Are you using two strands - you could try with a single strand, doing each stitch / twice then \ twice, then there is only one thread at the back which may not be so noticeable.

I have also done the odd stitch like this, tying a knot and snipping after each stitch but that is a bit laborious if there are a lot of them.

Oh yes when the background is not stitched even on fabric I do not run my threads across the open areas. I tie knots. I know there are those that will be shocked and appalled at that but for my work it is the best way for me.

Another thought to add to what I said above. Start with a loop and then you only have one thread to secure through the stitches on the back.

When I read the post title, I thought, "Oh, pinhead stitch, of course" but then I opened it and saw the part about perforated paper. If it were my project, I'd use a single thread and do each leg twice as Mags suggested. The single thread may be more inconspicuous than two threads. I'll use that method when doing pieces with lettering -- like a sampler -- and I don't want the floater thread between the letters to be visible on the front. If all else fails, knot. I know that seems sacrilegious to suggest it, but sometimes we gotta do what we gotta do. If you use the single thread, do each leg twice and then knot, the knot won't be as big a bump as it would be with two threads.

I'm with Rose.
When I've done those Mill Hill kits, I've just knotted the single stitches.
Or I just tuck under what I can, knowing that I'm covering the back with felt that will have some sort of adhesive on it and that will keep the threads held well enough. I turn most of mine into magnets or christmas tree ornaments.

MaggieM1750 wrote:I'm with Rose.
When I've done those Mill Hill kits, I've just knotted the single stitches.
Or I just tuck under what I can, knowing that I'm covering the back with felt that will have some sort of adhesive on it and that will keep the threads held well enough. I turn most of mine into magnets or christmas tree ornaments.

This one is one of the big kits, so it will be framed, but I'm thinking that I need to still line the back with something because the Mill Hill frames don't have any backing.

Maggie, for the small kits you turn into ornaments/magnets (I just picked up a small MH kit the other day), do you line them and then cut the shape out, or try to cut the lining to the shape? I'm going back and forth on the best way to do it.

Heres one that I actually had a photo of. Its hard to see since its white thread on white paper.. but I cut 1 block away from the edge of the stitching. Backed with white felt, then trimmed the felt to match the ornament. So.. trimmed twice.
I just used a piece of cheap felt and sprayed adhesive on it, and stuck it to the back of my project. Figured it would be better to spray the felt than to spray the paper- maybe it wouldn't make a difference? I don't know. I also don't know if it would have been easier to cut both paper and felt in one step once the pieces were glued together? I feel I can be more precise cutting in 2 steps- felt isn't the easiest to get a good edge on- especially inside corners. And for something like this... cutting twice only takes a minute or two.
After I got all the glue off my fingers, with a sharp needle and 4-5 lengths of thread, I whip stitched around the outside. I stitched so that I was poking through the back, pulling towards the front with my needle. And a sharp needle since felt fibers go every which way.

This one I turned into a magnet. So when all was done, I just glued a magnet to the back of the felt.
I've not done one of the big kits that you can pop into the frames. I have one.. haven't started it yet.

Thanks for the info Maggie! I will definitely have to remember that for when I do mine, I hadn't thought of whip stitching the outsides together, but that would definitely keep the two halves together, which I was worried about!