You have to sew the top and bottom edges of your material to the webbing, then you turn the rollers until tight and then tighten the wing nuts at the back
Generally the webbing is attached at the top and bottom of your design. You can sew it on (double sewing thread and long stitches, nothing fancy). OR you can use masking tape to stick your fabric onto the webbing. Now, this only works if you have quite a bit extra so that you can roll it around the bar at least once, and you will probably have to cut off a bit of sticky material when you are done. I love masking tape: the duct tape for of the stitching world!
I use these roller frames to do designs that are long horizontally, too, using the same principle. I guess I'm used to them, as I don't find them difficult, and they do fit in many standard floor stands, too.
I just will add that having to hold it in my hand and stitching was not fun. When I got the floor stand for it, easily constructed if you have someone handy with wood, I thought I had died and gone to heaven. I also got a lap stand but personally prefer the floor stand so had DH modify the lap scroll frame so I can interchange my two scroll frames depending on which project I am working on. The lap stand has become a dust collector.
I have also purchased plastic knobs that work on the bolts for a much easier friendlier way of tightening the bars in place. I will take photos later in the day and share.
you know i had one of thes sort of but it had tacks like and no webbing i think i even might have thrown it away . I posted a whole long thing about a scroll fram as i want to purchase one but they never seem ide enough as i work on large haeds and i just went to see if anyone had any other ideas and the whole post is missing or i put it somewhere else.
#1--Floor Frame with webbing attachers. The large knob is where the frame is held to the stand and it swivels easily to work on the back.
#2--Retrofit knob detail, far easier to tighten than the metal wing nuts
#3--Lap frame with split rails. Note mine has only two sets of holes, yours has 4 for size adjustment of canvas. The rail also goes through the hole on the lap stand to hold it upright. To work on the back you have to flip the stand around to make it comfortable to do so. So I had hubby drill holes in the center so I can attach it to the floor frame. Now the lap stand may well become firewood.