Mabel's Hardanger

[Mabel Figworthy]

As I'm hoping to do a lot more of this in the future, I thought I'd set up a separate thread for it. I'll first collect all my Hardanger so far here, then add new bits. I've just finished an experiment with uncut hardanger and filling stitches which I'm really looking forward to sharing!

Anyway, this was my first ever bit of hardanger, from Mary Hickmott's Easing Into Hardanger; it was made into a coaster:

[Mabel Figworthy]

Then three more squares from Mary Hickmott's two books, two of them made into mats using four-sided edging:







The multicoloured ones were on 25ct evenweave using Caron threads.

[Mabel Figworthy]

The next thing was a butterfly from an Anchor book; again on 25ct evenweave using Caron threads -- a lovely combination!

[Mabel Figworthy]

Then an experiment -- a double-sided Christmas ornament:

[Mabel Figworthy]

Then the 10 minis for Christmas:

[Mabel Figworthy]

And finally Martha's Dedication cross:



I'll post my filling experiment later today!

[agi]

They are so beautiful, Mabel, that you made me think hard where I put my half-finished hardanger about a year ago
You are a real inspiration in this!

[Emma1977]

they are all stunning. Beautiful colours and beautiful stitching

[Sarah Gixxer]

Wow, Mabel, these are gorgeous! I remember the first one you made into a coaster a while back. You have been busy since. I can't even pick a favourite, they're all so lovely.

[Lili]

wow!!! beautiful works!!!

[Mabel Figworthy]

So here is my "Uncut Hardanger With Filling Stitches" Experiment. It's going to be quite long so I'll spread it over a few posts. First the sampler: 11 little Kloster block squares filled with different filling stitches in different thread weights.

Here is a chart with them numbered, followed by a list of what they are, followed by the thing itself . For a change I've uploaded the full-sized picture to Webshots, so if you click on it and choose full screen or whatever they call it, you can see it in more detail (it does look rather fluffy close-up for some reason )



1. Dove’s Eye #8
2. Square Fillet #8
3. Spider’s Web #8
4. Dove’s Eye #12
5. Square Fillet #12
6. Spider’s Web #12
7. Algerian Eye #8
8. Fan #8
9. Fan #12
10. Algerian Eye #12
11 Twisted Bars #12
A Woven Bars
B Uneven Woven Bars
C Wrapped Bars
D Double Wrapped Bars

[Mabel Figworthy]

A few general points before I describe the stitches:

* In order for the stitches to show up, there needs to be a contrast between the thread and the fabric; traditional white on white doesn’t work!

* Bars are difficult to emulate on uncut fabric – they tend to end up looking like unsuccessful pulled work. On the sampler, A imitates woven bars, B uneven woven bars, C wrapped bars and D double wrapped bars.
What might work is to do them in unpulled stitches using #12 cotton so that they contrast in weight with the Kloster block; easier but a bit heavier in look is to use Kloster blocks throughout.

* There are several degrees of difficulty when stitching filling stitches on uncut fabric. From easy to practically impossible:
- stitches which can only be used on uncut fabric (Algerian Eye)
- stitches which naturally sit on the surface, and can be stitched as usual (Dove’s Eye)
- stitches which would naturally go through the cut area, and need tweaking (Square Fillet, Spider’s Web, Twisted Bars)
- stitches which incorporate the bars, and need a lot of tweaking or are best left alone (Fan, Greek Cross)

* Generally speaking, #12 works better than #8, although Dove’s Eye and Square Fillet are OK in #8 as well. Spider’s Web becomes blobby in #8, Algerian Eye rather solid, and Fan a mess. I haven’t tried Twisted Bars in #8 but suspect they would lose definition.

[Mabel Figworthy]

In order to describe more easily what I did, I made a little diagram using numbers and letters to indicate various bits of the Kloster block square:



And this is what I did:
* Algerian Eye is a doddle (predictably), and when pulled firmly gives a lacy open look without cutting. The fabric is hardly visible through the stitch – it shows up most on the edges of the filled square.

* Dove’s Eye work very well when surrounded by Kloster blocks – simply loop the thread through the centre stitch of each Kloster block (q x y and z in the diagram) as you go. Come up to the right of the middle stitch of the top Kloster block (q) and then go round anti-clockwise, that way you make the Dove’s Eye’s loops by going over the thread, you don’t have to fiddle underneath it. When you’ve completed the loop at y, take the needle underneath the stitch coming up at the right of q and go down to the left of the q.
I haven’t tried a Dove’s Eye when it is partly surounded by bars; normally you would loop round the woven or wrapped bar, which of course won’t work here. Just do the same as with the Kloster blocks, I think: loop through the centre stitch.

* Square Fillet is easily adapted to uncut fabric.
Come up at 1, go down at C. Come up at 3 to the right of the thread, go over the thread and go down at D. Continue like this until you come up at 2, then take the needle under the first part of the stitch and go down at A.

* Spider’s Web uses the same trick as Square Fillet to work.
Come up at A, go down at 4. Come up at D, twist the thread three times around the diagonal you have just stitched and go down at 1. Take the thread through the back of the top Kloster block and come up at B, go down at 3. Come up at C, twist the thread once around the diagonal, then weave around where the two diagonals cross, going under the first diagonal and over the second. When the Spider’s Web is the size you want, continue towards B, twisting the thread around the diagonal once more. Go down at 2.

* Twisted Bars look best when done in groups of four, all radiating from a central point. Below is the description of the bottom left corner of such a group.
Come up at B, loop the thread around x (entering below the thread and coming out above it), twist the thread three times around the long stitch you’ve just made, and go down at 2. Come up at B, loop the thread around z (entering to the left of the thread and coming out on the right), twist the thread three times around the long stitch you’ve just made, and go down at 2.

* I haven’t tried Greek Cross yet, but if Fan is anything to go by, it won’t be pretty. Fan really only works (and not very well even then) when done in #12.
Come up at B, go down at 3, and up at C. Take the thread underneath the diagonal from left to right, then loop through the bottom stitch of Kloster block x. Take the thread over the diagonal from right to left, and loop through the bottom stitch of Kloster block z. Take the thread underneath the diagonal from left to right, then loop through the next stitch up of Kloster block x. And so on until all stitches in the two Kloster block have been looped; go down at 4.

[Nachstenliebe]

I think we have a new addition to the hardanger royalty.
Faith

[Cecilia]

Lovely stitching as always.

[Rose]

Beautiful stitching!!!!!!!

[Serinde]

Well, this is fun!

[Vani]

Wow, I had no idea!!!! Fantastic!

[annkor26]

They are all lovely! I'm especially taken with that butterfly!

[maggs]

Great work Mabel