Newbie Question: Back Stitching - What Needle to Use?

[richardandtracy]

I am doing the first significant amount of backstitching I've ever done on a project. The back of the fabric is a pretty thick mat of threads having had an average of over 9 colours in a 10 x 10 square and I've used the Parking method to keep threads alive in a column.

So far I've been using the same tapestry needle I used for the cross stitching to do the back stitching. It's blunt and I'm having difficulty pressing through the mat of threads to find the fabric holes, and in doing so the fabric is getting a bit baggy (I know it'll wash out, but I'd prefer not to use so much force).

My question is: Are tapestry needles the right thing to use, or are sharps better for backstitching? Or would it be better to use a #28 rather than a #26 tapestry needle?

Oh, and I'd like to take this opportunity to complain about metallic threads. They are horrible to stitch with.

Regards,

Richard.

[Ruthi]

I would think that sharps will cause their own problems, because you'll inevitably catch bits of fibre from neighbouring threads. Although it won't seriously impact the direction of your backstitching, everything you do to 'unsettle' the fabric will show as a general lack of perfection when it is finished.

You could use a smaller tapestry needle, especially since its only one thread that needs to go through it. Remember that moving the needle along the thread is even more important when you are using a single thread and or a smaller needle.

If your fabric is going baggy you need to do something about that. Unroll it from your frame and re-roll. Or even wash before backstitching. You want the stitching to lie nice and flat when its all finished!

[Athalie]

I always use one size smaller needle for backstitching as at times it will be going into a hole that already has 8 threads in it (if you are stitching with 2 threads). I wouldn't use sharps, as Ruthi said, they cause their own problems.

[richardandtracy]

Thanks.

I'll persist, but with a smaller needle then. In actual fact, getting it through the fabric is no problem, but getting it through the mat of threads on the back (including tie-offs) is. On some of the back stitches I'm having them emerge in the middle of a cross, which is also no problem unless there's a lump of thread forming a tie-off immediately behind. Ahh well. Live & learn.

Regards,

Richard.

[NeedleAndFork]

I second (third?) using the idea of a smaller needle. Also, what I sometimes do if I have a hard time bringing the needle up to the front from the back is to first use a needle one size larger to stab a hole from the front... and then try to find it from the back. I've been known to do that in pieces that I've cross country stitched in as well when I jujst can't seem to bring my needle up from the back without splitting threads.

[karen4bells]

I usually will use a smaller gauge needle for doing that kind of backstitching, but if that doesn't do the trick, then I will use a sharp needle---which can be tricky to keep from poking my fingers with. Good luck!!

[Ruthi]

Richard, your problem is the tie-offs. Ditch them and stick to away knots and threading under existing stitching. They cause no end of problem when framing anyway.

[Allyn]

Richard, your problem is the tie-offs. Ditch them and stick to away knots and threading under existing stitching. They cause no end of problem when framing anyway.

When he says "tie-offs," I think he's talking about the anchors under existing stitches. When you have to anchor a lot of colors in a small area, running the tails under existing stitches can make for a bit of a wad on the back.

I use a #28 needle and do as NeedleandFork suggested -- pre-drilling a hole from the front -- if you find a stubborn one that needs some coaxing.

[wendywombat]

I keep a gold size 28 just for back stitching. I find gold needles smoother and easier to slip through the already filled holes.

I also use a good magnifier and light so I can be accurate in placing the stitches.


Bon Courage with metallics, too!

[richardandtracy]

Richard, your problem is the tie-offs. Ditch them and stick to away knots and threading under existing stitching. They cause no end of problem when framing anyway.

When he says "tie-offs," I think he's talking about the anchors under existing stitches. When you have to anchor a lot of colors in a small area, running the tails under existing stitches can make for a bit of a wad on the back.
...

That's it.

I got by with the #26 needle in the end. I didn't have a chance to go out & get a smaller needle before finishing the job - much of my weekend was taken up by carpet laying in my eldest daughter's room. Had to empty her room, remove the 32yo foam backed carpet, clean up the crumbled foam, then lay the new one before replacing the furniture & tons of junk. I think the carpet we put in (2nd hand from my M-I-L) was the heaviest carpet I've ever touched. It took 3 of us to get it up the stairs, and even then could only go 2 steps between rests.

Regards,

Richard