Tent stitch

[Carole]

I'm having issues with one of my WIPs and am thinking about restarting it on a finer fabric but using tent stitch. I know tent stitch is different to half cross stitch, but can't find any tutorials online apart from one image which shows it done going one way, but I can't figure out how to do the stitch going back the other way along the next row.

Does anyone have a link to a tutorial or just some decent pictures? Ta

[Allyn]

Look for tutorials on Continental stitch, too, since tent stitch and continental stitch are pretty much the same thing. Here is an explanation: http://needlepoint.about.com/od/stitchd ... ep-heading" target="_blank
The tutorial is for needlepoint, but it applies to cross stitch.

Here's another one talking about tent, continental and half cross:
http://www.threadneedlestreet.com/Conti ... Cross.html" target="_blank
Again, for needlepoint, but it applies.

[Carole]

Brilliant! Thanks so much Allyn. That's exactly what I was looking for

[richardandtracy]

Have to confess I'm using the half cross stitch on my current project, Coverage with 2 over 1 on 28ct seems good unless I allow the thread to twist as I pull it through. Seems fairly balanced at the moment and I'm not getting significant distortion on the roller frame.

Regards,

Richard.

[Allyn]

I wouldn't expect to get distortion cross stitching like you might get on needlepoint canvas. The coverage on the front is the same with half-crosses and tenting. The problem with doing half-crosses over 1 on linens and evenweaves is that every other vertical thread is ineffective in holding the stitch in place.

This applies to the first leg of a full cross when stitching over 1, as well. When stitching over 1, the stitches have to be formed a little different than when stitching over 2 to avoid the problem of them getting lost in the fabric threads.

I've seen your Honeymoon portrait (love it!) and I can't see where you're losing stitches so your tension isn't pulling the stitches under the fabric threads, but just be aware that it's something to watch for.

[richardandtracy]

That was something I've been trying to avoid by not pulling too tight. The coverage is also helped by not pulling too tight.
The biggest problem is thread twists, which could be solved by railroading, but I'd really need a stand so I could have a laying tool in my other hand to make that practical.

Regards,

Richard.

[Carole]

Richard, I use a laying tool when I'm doing specialist stitches, and use it with a stand with one hand beneath the fabric. The answer is to use a Trolley Needle which fits over your finger like a long thin fingernail.

I've got one like this

[Allyn]

That was something I've been trying to avoid by not pulling too tight. The coverage is also helped by not pulling too tight. The biggest problem is thread twists, which could be solved by railroading, but I'd really need a stand so I could have a laying tool in my other hand to make that practical.

I don't like railroading. I don't like that one thread unwinds as I push the needle down between the threads. It must work okay because a lot of people do it and like it, but I'm not one of them. Like Carole, I use a trolley needle as a laying tool. I have a lovely rosewood laying tool, but because I stitch 'in the well' a regular length laying tool bumps my scroll rods. The trolley needle works as an extension of my finger so I don't have a separate tool to manipulate. I put it on my index finger if I'm doing full crosses or on my thumb if I'm tenting.

And yes, I do agree you need a stand.

[richardandtracy]

I like the idea of a stand. I think. But it feels as if it's making a permanent 'stitching station' - I stitch in bed, in the conservatory, sitting on the floor in our bedroom with my back to the window, in the library (for when I go to the 'Knit & Natter' where I had a forlorn hope of finding people to learn from) or even my armchair in the living room. At the moment all my clutter fits in one carrier bag - it wouldn't with a stand. Also, the stand would have to clamp on a roller. I have my picture up & down, so the square part of the frame is at the top & bottom rather than the sides as you seem to have set up.

I'll look at one of those laying tools. I have used metal clay to make a thimble. My fingers are the standard size for me, but seem to be quite a bit bigger than the biggest thimble I could find (it was painfully tight on my little finger after 10 minutes!), and at last I have a thimble that fits me - the tip of my middle finger, where I use a thimble, is 22mm across. I would probably have do the same with the laying tool.

How do you use it?
I assume the tool goes under the loop of thread on the front face as it is pulled through, and just stops the thread twisting up as it's tightened. Then slip it out from under the loop at the last moment.

Regards,

Richard.

[Allyn]

I like the idea of a stand. I think. But it feels as if it's making a permanent 'stitching station' .....Also, the stand would have to clamp on a roller. I have my picture up & down, so the square part of the frame is at the top & bottom rather than the sides as you seem to have set up..

I tried stitching with the fabric mounted that way, but I couldn't do it. Reaching around was uncomforatble and then having to reach the top just wasn't going to happen. I can see, however, that for a man with man-length arms it could be quite doable. Adding a stand will definitely add to your carry-around stuff, but you can get a stand that is portable to use wherever you are and has a clamp at the top instead of on the side. One of these, for example:
http://www.adp-usa.com/product.aspx?pag ... rodid=1429" target="_blank
Instead of mounting the crossbar in the clap as shown in the picture, you'd mount your top sidebar. You're a crafty guy. If you wanted to design and build a stand using that clamp (which can be bought separately) to accommodate your stitching situation, I know you could if that's something you wanted to do.

I'll look at one of those laying tools. I have used metal clay to make a thimble. My fingers are the standard size for me, but seem to be quite a bit bigger than the biggest thimble I could find (it was painfully tight on my little finger after 10 minutes!), and at last I have a thimble that fits me - the tip of my middle finger, where I use a thimble, is 22mm across. I would probably have do the same with the laying tool.

The trolley needle has an adjustable finger 'clamp.' I shaped it to fit my finger so it fits just snug enough to stay in place. I have really big hands for a woman (where most women might take a size 5 or 6 ring on their ring finger, I take a size 8.5) and my trolley needle still has plenty of adjustment left. My husband sews and it took me a long time to find a thimble big enough for him. It's 20mm that he uses on his index finger. The trolley needle can be adjusted plenty big enough for him, but again, you're a crafty guy. If you wanted to take a really big tapestry needle -- whatever size needle would be 58mm long -- and make one, I'm confident you could. That's all a trolley needle is -- a giant tapestry needle soldered into a finger cap.

How do you use it?
I assume the tool goes under the loop of thread on the front face as it is pulled through, and just stops the thread twisting up as it's tightened. Then slip it out from under the loop at the last moment.

Yes, that's basically it. Put the tool on the stitch and draw the threads down on it. Make sure the two threads are side-by-side, then slip the tool out and draw the thread down the rest of the way. When I draw the threads down over the tool, I pull them taut to 'firm up' the back of the stitch. I can do that with the tool in place because it's wide enough that I can draw the threads over it without distorting the holes in the fabric. Then I slip the tool out and draw the threads the rest of the way so they lay against the fabric. My stitch is 'firm' without being tight, if that makes sense.

[richardandtracy]

Thanks Allyn, I'll take a serious look at the trolley needle.

The stand, well, I'll think on it a bit. It would probably be better to have one, but.. I sort of feel it'd be taking the whole stitching thing too seriously if I were to get one. A lap stand would be a nice compromise, but I usually have a cat there.

Regards,

Richard

[Serinde]

Ah, well, Richard. One doesn't have to have only one stand... I have my main big one where I usually sit, plus a smaller (10" hoop) one that can either be used on a table or sat upon at need, and can be taken to EG. (My usual problem is lighting.)

I railroad just by manipulating the needle through the threads without a problem, although I do sometimes use a laying tool, particularly with other stitching techniques. (But you still need a stand. Of course, you do.)

[Allyn]

...The stand, well, I'll think on it a bit. It would probably be better to have one, but.. I sort of feel it'd be taking the whole stitching thing too seriously if I were to get one. ...

Really? You aspire to stitch as elegantly as your grandmother did, but you don't want to take it too seriously? How does that work?

[richardandtracy]

... I have rarely been accused of being logical or self-consistent. That's how it works.

Regards,

Richard.

[Sojourner]

Goodness, here was I, a relative beginner, thinking cross stitch was just cross stitch: 2 diagonal stitches,one over the other, preferably in the same direction each time.
And now, not only have I to cope with "confetti,"frogging",and "parking" (which have already been explained), but now have "railroading","lap needles" "trolley needles" etc to cope with.
What's it all about, Alfie? How does such a seemingly simple subject become so complex?
Surely one just threads a needle with the correct colour, finds the place on the chart/hole to push it through, and carries on until the next change of colour?
Or am I missing something here?

[richardandtracy]

As with all subjects, it's only as complicated as you want it to be.

I am aiming for something as close to perfect as I can manage - on my 'Honeymoon Portrait' I've started with 118 colours 2 over 1 on 28ct, and next I'll try blending. One thing I have noticed is that as I pull the tent stitches flat, sometimes they twist and don't give the coverage over the diagonal that they should and the surface seems a bit uneven. The railroading etc is an effort to prevent that.

'Simples' as a certain Olaf says.

Regards,

Richard.